Development As Freedom, Illiteracy in Morocco, Hope in Tech, and Persistence

Not too long ago I finished a book titled Development as Freedom written by Nobel Prize winning economist Amartya Sen. It was a gift from a dear friend and mentor prior to my departure from Washington, DC. I didn't touch the book for about a year until I found out that I was headed to Morocco with the Peace Corps. I thought it might be pertinent to have more of an idea of what it is like to work in the developing world, as it is commonly referred to, and to understand some of the challenges that have hindered its progress; so I picked up the book and began reading it during my visit to Venezuela last summer.

At first, the book starts off with technical descriptions perhaps to fend off some of the criticism on the holistic approach to development that the author is proposing. He talks about how too often many high planning committees within leading organizations like the World Bank, Inter-American Development Bank, IMF, and governments take a somewhat narrow view to development considering very a small set of data before engaging in massive development schemes.

For instance, many committees focus on increasing GDP and per capita income, but sometimes in doing so neglect large segments of the population, which may never benefit from the influx of money directed to various income-generating projects. Per capita income for example takes the income of a country and simply divides the number by the estimated population. It is widely believed that a rise in per capita translates to a rise in the standard of living for that country, but this assumption often does not reflect reality as much of a country's new wealth may be concentrated only in urban centers or among a small segment of the population of wealthy individuals. Some development schemes intended to increase the wealth of a country come through in terms of raising GDP and per capita income, but at the same time exacerbate poverty and widen the wealth disparity.

This book is a must read for all those thinking about entering the international development world and plan to seek change through changes in public policy. It contrasts the policies of India, China, and a host of other countries to demonstrate how integrated public policy initiatives that focus on increasing the opportunities to participate in the electoral process, changing policies that perpetuate gender inequalities, improving the quality and outreach of education, and limiting the role of government with regards to trade have the potential to stave off widespread starvation and pandemics and gives most everyone in that country the ability to benefit from economic expansion.

Sometimes while reading the book, I felt that the author was imploring some of the countries with crumbling infrastructures to take action by showing them that, for instance, holding on to power and limiting the electoral process may be more harmful in the long run because as communication between the people and its government is suppressed so is the information needed for governments to take action to avert any crisis. Not educating the populace, which some governments do with the short-sighted intention of keeping their people docile to remain in power, has the effect of creating a populace that will not be able to compete in the global marketplace and as a result will lose its ability to trade their brain power, a country's most valuable asset, for the commodities and materials needed to sustain their economy.

Why am I writing all this? Nope, I am not getting into the business of book reviews and neither am I arguing for any public policy agenda. I am glad that I read this book because it makes me reflect upon the many instances in which public policy in Morocco, Venezuela, and even in the U.S. has prevented people from being able to live the life they wish to live

Development moving shwiya b shwiya(little by little)

In the case of Morocco, the number one issue that I feel is impeding a rapid development of its economy is the high illiteracy rate. For all my life, I've lived in countries where illiteracy was not a main issue so I rarely considered how crippling it could be. It is still hard for me to fathom that nearly 50% of the country cannot read.  Back in 2007, Magharebia reported on the results of a government survey that showed that the rate of illiteracy had come down from 43% to 38.5%, but bear in mind that this is the national average.  Within the community I work with of artisans and primarily older, rural women, the figure is still above 60%.

The situation is complicated even further as Morocco, a land that has been conquered and ruled by various dynasties and empires from both East and West, is still pulled from every corner making it necessary for its populace to be fluent in French, Spanish, Standard Arabic, and now to some degree English in order participate in the global marketplace. Other countries are in similar situations; however, when nearly half of the population cannot read the country's official language of Arabic, it just means that it has a long road to travel.

One Perspective on Why

Just to put things in context for a second, Abdelkader Ezzaki from the Faculté des Sciences de l'Education of Université Mohammed V presenting a speech at the World Congress on Reading in 1988 wrote that the French Protectorate looking to further its political and economic interests took strict control of the curriculum, made French the "superior language of literacy", and demoted Arabic to a second language in French-run schools.  Furthermore, he adds that the French established "a highly selective educational system whereby the educational opportunities were severely limited and distributed on the basis of social class."  He notes that upon Morocco gaining its independence in 1956 the general illiteracy rate stood at nearly 90%.  Crazy! Therefore, considering how far the country has come since then, some may argue rather slowly, the efforts nonetheless have made a huge difference.

Tech illiteracy presents another barrier to growth. As a number of countries in Europe, Asia, and in the Americas are devising ways to manage the information overload, the majority of the population outside of the major urban centers of the developing world are just getting the skills to create content. While many buyers have taken advantage of the low-cost online shopping alternative and sellers have capitalized on an opportunity to sell directly to customers oceans apart, only a few options of that sort exist in Morocco.

At the mercy of the bazzarist

As a small business development volunteer, illiteracy is a major challenge. When conversing with a number of artisans, most expressed the need for a broader market, namely the foreign market. One would think, well, this is doable. We create some marketing materials, identify some potential partners, and then begin reaching out. Unfortunately, due to the high rate of illiteracy, opening up new markets becomes a long-term project. If the objective is to make it sustainable, engaging in this initiative raises a number of questions and challenging scenarios.

For example:

1) I can create the initial marketing materials, but will they be able to maintain them? Are they willing to learn some of the programs and techniques to create their own? Or are they willing to pay someone else to produce and maintain them?

2) Are they willing to devote some time to learning how to type and how to use various web search tools to prospect opportunities? Or will they need to pay someone else to do this for them?

3) On customer service management, how can you contact vendors in France if your artisan cannot speak French? Is the artisan willing to learn or will he/she be willing to pay someone to translate?

Moroccan artisana is some of the finest in the world. It is highly sought after, but in most cases those who produce it rarely receive a fair compensation for their hard labor. Why? One of the main issues is illiteracy. The vast number of bazzarists that exist today are around because they have acquired a foreign language --in some cases just mastery of the spoken Moroccan Arabic dialect as some women artisans deep in the Middle Atlas region only speak a regional Amazigh dialect-- or have some technical skills that allow them to serve as the link between the buyer and the artisan. These conduits are filling a vacuum and naturally making a profit. Consequently, because most bazzarists are located in large urban centers that draw tourists or help facilitate exports, the profit for the most part stays in the urban centers further fueling their growth while the small mountain village where the artisan resides is still unable to gather sufficient capital to cover basic necessities.

It's mind blowing to see how the inability to read and write plays out in the artisan community. As long as people remain illiterate, they will be at the mercy of others. Another book I read called Export Marketing for a Small Handicraft Business by Edward Millard through Oxfam Press points out how critical the communication between customers and producers is for the producer. In Morocco, because bazzarists have direct interaction with customers, they have a better idea of what the trends are and what customers want. Sometimes a bazzarist will pass the information to a cooperative, but in most cases he will go to another cooperative to get what his customers need. Without direct contact, most producers continue to produce what they know without little to no modifications.

Hope

The situation may seem dire, but new developments in technology and government policy may improve the prospectus. Recently the Kingdom of Morocco announced an increase in funding for more literacy programs that will hopefully ameliorate the situation.  Just a few days ago in celebration of International Literacy Day on Sept. 8th, Magharebia wrote about the success of an initiative where women associations across Morocco are receiving funds to conduct Arabic language classes --  some volunteers work with some of these associations.  Additionally, they have also invested more funds as part of an emergency package to make it possible for rural children to attend school and to enforce a new compulsory education age requirement raising it to fifteen years of age.

Fortunately, advances in technology are also helping people overcome some of the literacy and tech barriers. Not too long ago, I installed Skype in several of the artisana complex computers and in the PC of one of my artisans. Doing so has allowed her and others to video conference directly with some prospective clients in France and even with some in the U.S. all for free. Where there is a language barrier, online translators are now helping people get the gist of a message enough to carry out orders.  Information that was once only available in hardback books in the aisles of various libraries is now being uploaded to the web.  Some universities in the states are now collaborating on a project where one can even take peer reviewed university level courses on the net for free (Check it out http://academicearth.org).  I hope these new development continue to grow and expand and will hopefully catch on eventually in the Maghreb.  The technology is certainly there as 3G coverage continues to expand exponentially every year.  Lastly, freeware is giving people software to learn to type, learn foreign languages, and to use popular document creation programs.

Is this bus going to .....?

I am actually in the same struggle that many Moroccans are in. I'm also illiterate to some degree. If it wasn't for the French that is posted in most urban centers and in some official document sources and the media, I would be completely lost. The other day I was traveling back to my site from a remote location and I was waiting for my bus back home. The bus as usual was not on time, but all the while buses from all sorts of different destinations going to the far reaches of Morocco where arriving and departing. I just started practicing Arabic script so at the present moment I still confuse a lot of the letters and read basic words as if I was a tape player on its last bits of battery life. Sounding out these words around people reinforces the idea that I may have mental issues and that therefore I should get first dibs on a seat and that I need to be spoken to loudly and slowly. I have no problems with this perception. I still need to hear Arabic loud and clear and I don't mind getting escorted to a seat instead of having to stiff arm someone else for it. This and many other experiences make you feel powerless because you have to rely on someone else to help you get back to your own home. I've never been in that situation and it frustrated me so much that it motivated me to tackle script with a little more diligence.

Persistence

I only hope that some illiterate Moroccans feel the same frustration, but I can see how many have simply adapted to a certain lifestyle.  Last month, I was visiting with a cooperative president, Amina Yabis, who was urging some of her members to take advantage of the Arabic literacy classes offered at the high schools. Sadly, I saw in some of the members' faces the same fear, low self-esteem, and a bit of apathy that I saw in some of the recently migrated students when I was working for the ESL department at my old high school. Even some of the responses were the same: that's not for me; I don't think I can; I'm too old; I'm doing just fine without it; or I don't have the time and so on. It's unfortunate that my Arabic was not at a point where I could have given them some sort of reality check or motivational speech like I often did with my former students. The good thing was that the cooperative president was persistent asking them several times and even visiting their homes occasionally to follow up on their progress. That persistence, I think, may just be the thing that will bring about change.

Literacy Agents

Getting back to the book review, Mr. Sen summarizes that an improvement in literacy is linked with a decrease in infant mortality, birthrate, an increase in life expectancy, economic activity, and will likely result in a more representative government. How come? Because people would be able to get the information they need to manage their lives better, the increased communication fuels trade, women who are literate may enter the workforce or put off childbearing until later, and more rural literate people would be able to have their voices heard.

While it would be ideal for a government to launch a campaign to eradicate illiteracy, NGOs and organizations like the Peace Corps can aid in the process.  Sometimes a lot of volunteers feel as if some of their work produces little result because perhaps there are may be no tangible results like a new building going up, a playground being laid out, or new equipment being delivered for income-generating activities.  While I think that these tangible results are noteworthy, I think the exchange of information may be just as critical.  Granted for the first year of service this can be extremely difficult when you're trying to speak a language so different from your own.  However, once you have a reasonable level down and have some feel for the culture, the exchange can be invaluable.  Being shown some best practices in reducing infant mortality, safeguarding the environment, or managing one's business can be just the thing that may help an individual or community grow and live more comfortably and preserve or enhance their surroundings.

At the end of the day, the work most of us do has to do with literacy in all sorts of different fronts. By no means do I or fellow volunteers assume to have all the answers.  Sometimes some of our ideas are completely inapplicable in the current setting and the locals may have a more practical way to go about doing things.  Information is exchanged nonetheless.

I don't necessarily think that providing information is imposing one's culture or values.  The exchange is what is important.  Some people may like an idea while others may consider it strange.  Prior to that idea being exchanged, perhaps there were very few ideas on the table or anything substantially different.  The information is presented, but ultimately it is up to individuals to apply the knowledge in their everyday lives.

Before I go off on another tangent speaking about the benefits of improving literacy, I think instead that I'll get back to ameliorating my own illiteracy.  Thanks for reading and I'll be sure keep you posted on my progress.

Wide-eyed in the Land of the Far West

Arid hills of the Middle Atlas

Greetings from the land of the far west, Morocco. According to history--and I am paraphrasing what was said to me, which was probably paraphrased from some historian and to that I´m adding a few colorful details--Arab explorers sometime around the 7th and 8th century AD weary from the unrelenting Saharan sun and exhausted from crossing the arid rocky terrain of the Middle Atlas upon seeing that they were met with an ocean said to themselves, “That's it, the end of the world.  This is as far west as we can go.” One of the Arab explorers followed, "Yall can go back, but there's no way in the Islamic version of hell that I'm crossing the Sahara again." So he and others stayed.  After having a very nice tajine cooked most undoubtedly by a local Amazigh guide, and of course having a bit of tea, they, without asking the local guide for the name of the place, decided to call their newly discovered territory Al-Maghrib, the land of the far west or land where the sun sets.

As you have noticed from my blog title, I have adopted a Moroccan name. Yousef, whose English equivalent would be Joseph or in Spanish José.  I was donned the name by my host dad and mom from my training site. They thought that Jonathan was a little too difficult to pronounce and thought that a more appropriate name for me would be Yousef. Other Moroccans have complimented me on the name saying it is a good name so I decided to stick with it.

Peace Corps Director David Lillie

So here I am already three months in and done with our Community-Based Training(CBT). I swore in not too long ago at a really fancy hotel ballroom with amazing panoramic views of Fez. The event was quite memorable. It had the feel of a commencement ceremony. Two trainees from our language groups presented speeches in their respective Moroccan languages kind of like the speeches given by our salutatorian and valedictorian. They were selected by our Language and Culture Facilitators (LCF) or what you could consider to be the faculty.

US Ambassador to Morocco Thomas Riley and Nancy Riley

In addition to the faculty, the administrators were also present. Our Country Director, David Lillie, was the master of ceremonies, and the keynote address was given by the ambassador who also conferred upon us the title of Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV).  Many of our host family members made it to the event, applauded our achievement, and at the banquet incessantly and emphatically demanded that we sit, eat, and drink much like they had done for the last couple of months. It was a nice cap to the 11-week training period.

Training

The pace of the training was somewhat exhausting, but I actually wish there was more of it especially language. We had a Moroccan Arabic textbook that was made by Peace Corps Morocco staff and volunteers, which I thought was really good in terms of its methodology and its substance.  The LCF's knew that at the end of the training we would be to some extent on our own getting to our sites, doing a bit of shopping, searching for lodging, and getting acquainted with our counterparts and ministry delegates, so they wasted no time on theory and taught us whatever was necessary to survive those first few months.

The language training is an intensive curriculum that packs in the equivalent of two to three semesters of language courses into 11-weeks.  We covered the imperative, past, present, and future tense forms of verbs, how to use articles properly, possession, common adjectives, a huge laundry list of vocabulary, and a load of stock phrases used by many Moroccans.  

I remember past tense took an entire semester at my old high school. Note however that I said covered and not learned. Some were able to retain more than others, but I think we are all going through the process of defragmentation at this moment. We got so much information in such a short period of time and miraculously much of it is stored somewhere in the brain, but it’s like you need to reorganize your brain or review the information so that you can begin to put all pieces together.

At times, it felt like I was cramming for a final exam everyday. I placed my Moroccan Arabic textbook under my pillow as I had done prior for previous college exams, but this time around the process of learning by osmosis did not yield the same results. Perhaps Arabic script does not diffuse or is not absorbed as quickly or maybe my brain does not have the adequate receptors to properly retrieve the information.  Some volunteers broke out flashcards, played Arabic charades, and others closed their eyes and meditated on some of the common phrases like Buddhist monks. I saw a lot people slap their heads and faces, pull their hair, and forcibly squint their eyes in utter frustration. I did and am still doing a combination of all those things. It would be interesting to find out if any of the latter physical methods work better than others.

I once saw this documentary on how the brain works on Discovery Channel, which I greatly miss, about how information is stored but how it takes different triggers like a smell, sound, touch, or some visual association to restore it from the depths of one’s mental archives. Our LCFs did a pretty good job of trying to create situations that would help us associate words with actions through various mock plays, dialogues, drawings, or simply going to the store and trying out all our new vocabulary with the mul hanut, convenience store owner. When I am scrambling for a word, I usually flashback to those situations and in some cases can come up with a word or two that can explain my latest predicament.

In addition to the language lessons, we were given an overview of Peace Corps’ approach to community development and how it pertains to our particular focus. Peace Corps Morocco has at this moment various sectors: environment, health, youth development, and small business. According to the director and if I remember correctly there are either 200 or 300 volunteers in Morocco making it one of the biggest programs worldwide. Morocco also has one of the longest running programs since Peace Corps’ inception, and the small business unit is the newest addition to the PC Morocco portfolio. Per the Moroccan government’s invite specifically the Ministry of Tourism and Artisana, the unit was created with the directive to foster the growth of those two sectors with a special interest in handicraft and textile production. Our program managers provided us with a brief overview of the sector, which according to them contributes to nearly 20% of their GDP. Quite an astounding figure I thought. So as we muddled through our language lessons, we were also given a lot of information to prepare us for our role as small business development volunteers.

All in all, training was a blast. There were plenty of awkward moments of complete silence with host families and many others filled with laughter like when I introduced Sumo wrestling to my host kid brother. My host mother cooked some amazing meals like a delicious oven-cooked chicken with a parsley and lemon glaze and a bunch of other seasonings and with a ton of olives. For someone who enjoys olives, Morocco is about as close as you can get to olive heaven. The chicken was served in a large platter with the whole chicken in the center and a moat of chicken broth and green olives all around it. Absolutely delicious!

Not so delicious was the steamed sheep’s head we had for leid sghir, the dinner to break the Ramadan fast. The sheep’s brain was served on the side. My mother gave me the honorary first try at the brain. I can’t say that it tasted anything like chicken. It was more like a bland, white spongy mush. With a little cumin and salt I was able to take a few more bites. One of my host sisters played with the sheep’s ears as though they were conversing with one another. After the games, everyone sunk their bread bits into the head and began to take it apart. My host father took a jaw and began gnawing at it. I was also given one of the jaws, which I gathered was a precious portion as it contained some of the best meat, and just followed my host dad’s gnawing example.

During training there was still time for fun. I was able to take a couple of hikes, one near Azrou, my seminar site, and another in Ain Leuh, my community-based site. The view from the summit of the Azrou mountain ridge was absolutely breathtaking.

You could see miles and miles of rolling hills, clusters of cedar trees, narrow plots of green, recently plowed plots waiting for the winter rains, grazing pastures, and a concentrated bunch of apartment buildings sprawling out from the slope of the mountain and extending throughout the valley.

You try to capture everything within the expansive view, but you find yourself so inept in doing so that after a while you give up and just begin to marvel. Aside from the hikes, volunteers organized movie nights, dance-offs, a talent show, and various exercise groups did everything from yoga to intense aerobics. There was a little bit of everything for everyone. I led a number of yoga classes, which were quite spiritual I might add. A group of us would go to the roof of the auberge (youth hostel) and go through an hour long class as the sun would rise over the mountains. It was an awesome way to start the day.

The swearing-in ceremony was kind of a bittersweet moment. You’re excited to have reached this moment with your fellow PCVs, but sad to see them go. Also, the (LCFs) that we clung to no longer would be there to clear up those incidences when we meant no offense when we accidentally called a man a woman and vice-versa. I met some great individuals and we shared some great moments. Now the fun really begins in my new city, my new home in @#$%^& (Sorry, Peace Corps policy does not allow me to disclose).

Thanks for reading.